Arrived in Cuernavaca (Morelos) today after an eventful ride from Morelia. Set out following the Aquaduct from Morelia taking the free road to CD Hidalgo. It starts out normal then quickly becomes country side. Not unusual to see a herd of cattle grazing at the side of the road. As you enter the Parque National Insurgente Jose Maria Morelos th views are amazing. The narrow road quickly climbs through the mountains, through lush countryside, was thinking this is really like a country drive in Wicklow mountains, (only much higher). The roads a nice twisty and narrow, but there is not much traffic so overtaking is easy. The Topes in the small towns bunch what little there is, so while standing on the footpegs you can hop past them.
Road improves again around Hidalgo and Zitacuaro. After Zitacuaro follow route 15 again towards Toluca where I successfully managed to side step my first attempted bribe. Was stopped by a Police (i think) checkpoint, (guys with M16s and Blue Uniforms), where i got called aside. Was my usual friendly self, then they started asking about the bike and how much it costs etc, (made up a much smaller amount) and where i was staying etc, then they tried to suggest i give them money.. so anytime it was mentioned i changed topic or feigned not to understand.
After about 10 mins of chatting one of them asked if i was married, so i said of course not, One of the guards says so are you gay? the reply was perfect "No Mames" (mexican slang for dont be fucking with me!) it got a laugh and it bought my ticket to freedom! No bribe just a laugh.
The best bit of the ride is after Toluca, I took the free road again south to avoid Mexico City to Tenango just after Tenango on route 55 there is a 3rd class road which turns off to Joquicingo and on to Chalma. This is awesome! full of pot holes, covered in Mud, lots of landslides from the recent rain, and of course twisty mountain road! It curls its way up over Eroded Volcanic formations to these villages which seem to hang onto the side of the cliff. What was strange was a cycle race i met along the way, which was like Tour de France meets Procession of the Sacred Virgin on a Marrion Year. Most of the cyclists had large crosses with images of Christ or Mary projecting about 4 foot off the back of their saddles, and seemed to ride in groups from each of the villages! it was a sight to behold! Eventually the Road decends out of the mountains to a great view over Cuernavaca. So i will stay here for a few days before riding to meet Gary for a tour of Mexico City.
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